Taiwan -- Day 6 Taroko Gorge, The Descent, Tianxiang, and The Silks Hotel

Riding through the tunnel seemed to last forever.  I wasn’t sure if I was going to ride smack into a wall, or ride over a rock and bail or be hit from behind by a giant bus full of tourists.  When I finally reached the light I sent a thankful prayer to God.  This ride was now officially named White-Knuckle-Death-Ride-Down-Taroko-Gorge. I had been mentally set for a lovely easy ride and the first 10 minutes had aged me 10 years. I would definitely recommend to anyone thinking of walking or riding down the gorge to wear the brightest most reflective clothing they own.  It also wouldn’t hurt to have a powerful light and horn/bell on your bike so that you could alert people that you were in the tunnel.  If you have no time limits the ride up and down the Gorge can be completed by even the most novice of riders, although some walking may be involved.



Taroko Gorge




Taroko Gorge,
 The amazing amount of water run-off due to Typhoon Megi

The next twenty kilometers or so down the Gorge and back to the bike shop were breath taking.  The scenery is unbelievable and words just don’t do it justice.  When the sun hits the gorge’s marble walls they light up. I stopped many times on the way down to take pictures. Waterfalls and trails abound, the river(s) rush by like thundering liquid cement, and through it all you’re having the most thrilling ride. There are more tunnels and bridges to negotiate but none as scary as the first one outside of Tianxiang.  At one point we hit a single lane stretch of road and had to keep riding while the largest tour bus I’d ever seen passed by us. Kate of Global Soul Adventures had set up a helmet camera and she took an amazing six-minute clip of some of our ride.



Taroko Gorge



As usual I was lagging behind the group, even on the descent. These people are crazy (in the nicest possible way). Cola Mark clocked himself doing 41-MILES PER HOUR on the way down and I was freaked out if I hit 30 KILOMETRES.  They tore down the road having great fun, taking photos and teasing each other.  I rode like it was a Sunday afternoon in the country and I was 100 years old.  Kate was my savior this time and had me follow her, as I didn’t remember the way to the bike shop once we left the Gorge.  As we rode down the main street I saw Wireless Mark and Beverly at an intersection and Mark was holding out his hand.  Kate was riding ahead of me and yelled, “It’s for you, Niamh”. As I came upon them, I saw that Mark was holding out a can of Taiwan Beer for me.  What a lovely, lovely group I was traveling with. Bev and Mark had bought me a present for completing the ride in one piece. 

 

GIANT Store, Hualien





Hualien Giant Store near the entrance to Taroko Gorge




Hualien Giant Store near the entrance to Taroko Gorge



Once the bikes were returned we all boarded the Pony Bus and headed back up the Taroko Gorge to Tianxiang and The Silks Hotel. It was amazing to ride up the gorge again but this time with the intimate knowledge of what it was like riding in on a bicycle.  This day was a memory of a lifetime and a definite bucket-list item.



Aerial View of The Silks Hotel,
Tianxiang, Taroko Gorge



We arrived at The Silks Hotel and found out that we had all been upgraded to the Retreat Suites.  The hotel is the only Five Star hotel in Taroko Gorge and definitely deserves every star it has.  It is out of this world beautiful.  We checked in and met the General Manager Michael B. Gaehler in The Retreat Lounge and had a welcome drink. Michael was very friendly and personable and made us all feel right at home.  From The Retreat Lounge you can make your way out onto the roof of the hotel. Spectacular!  In front of us was the most amazing infinity pool that overlooked the Gorge. There were four hot tubs, a large grass space, and two rows of swish loungers, a tennis court and large fire pit area.



Pool area and loungers
The Silks Hotel,
Tianxiang, Taroko Gorge





Infinity Pool

The Silks Hotel,

Tianxiang, Taroko Gorge



The Retreat Lounge
The Silks Hotel
Tianxiang, Taroko Gorge



Our welcoming drink and apple at The Retreat Lounge,
The Silks Hotel
Tianxiang, Taroko Gorge



Still, this could not compare to how grand our suites were.  My suite overlooked the inner courtyard with a large balcony.  It had a lovely four-poster bed (which was super comfortable), an office desk area, minibar and coffee station and sitting room.  The room was decked out for all things high tech. The absolute stunner though was the bathroom.  It took up a third or so of the room and had a huge stand alone tub with mineral salts, large walk-in shower, separate water closet, opulent robes, and two vanity stations with deluxe toiletries, a walk-in closest and safe. It was like a dream.  I never wanted to leave it but daylight was dying and we wanted to explore Tianxiang and the surrounding area. 



My room at The Silks Hotel,
Retreat Floor
Tianxiang, Taroko Gorge




My bathroom at The Silks Hotel,
Retreat Floor
Tianxiang, Taroko Gorge



Note:  Thankfully our smelly clothes situation was fixed as well.  After nicely pleading with the front desk at The Silks, they took all of our laundry and returned it that evening.  Fabulous Service!

Once we got outside to start exploring our first stop was to cross the Pudu Bridge.  Until 2003 this was a suspension bridge.  At that point it was rebuilt as a cable-stayed concrete one for safety reasons.  The bridge leads you to the Xiangde Temple, Tian Feng Pagoda and the Giant Statue of Bodhisattva.  The bridge itself is lovely, with large lotus flower monuments greeting you before it spans the deep gorge.  Once on the other side you will cross under the Xiangde Temple gate and start a nice asthma-attack-inducing stair climb. Again you should leave yourself plenty of time and have a good pair of shoes to enjoy the sights. 



Pudu Bridge
Tianxiang, Taroko Gorge



Entrance to Pudu Bridge
Tianxiang, Taroko Gorge

 

Along the way you will come to a terrace with a small coffee shop, a gazebo and a three-walled room housing a Buddha-like statue, what appears to be a praying alter and a public telephone. Maybe it wasn’t a Buddha statue, but I was still intrigued by the telephone.  Did the locals in Tianxiang have a direct line to Siddattha Gotama and Nirvana? If so, they really have a leg up on us Roman Catholics.




Xiangde Temple Area,
Tianxiang, Taroko Gorge




Xiangde Temple Area,
Tianxiang, Taroko Gorge



Buddha and the telephone
Xiangde Temple Area
Tianxiang, Taroko Gorge

We continued up the climb of alternating paths and steps till we reached the Tain Feng or “Heaven Summit” Pagoda. Its name is apt because when you reach the top you are not sure if you are in heaven or on your way. This seven-story structure is breathtaking. It’s red doors, gray octagan walls and orange tiled roof appears out of the misty clouds. Inside you can look down the red and yellow staircase to the main floor. Once at the top you overlook the entire recreational area of Tianxiang, the temple, Taroko Gorge and The Silks Hotel.  



Bev on "The Stairway to Heaven"
Tianxiang, Taroko Gorge




Mark on "The Sloped Rise to Heaven"
Tianxiang, Taroko Gorge

 Once we finished at the Pagoda we made our way to the Xiangde and Daxiong Baodian Temples. They are located on a large terrace filled with a kaleidoscope of colors, beautiful architecture, gardens and the Giant Statue of Bodhisattva.  This giant gold statue standing on a lotus flower, against the backdrop of the green mountains draws you in for a closer look. Amazing! Words again do not describe the beauty and wonder of Taroko Gorge.  I made an offering to the donation box before we headed back down and over the Pudu Bridge. 

Tian Feng or "Heaven Summit" Pagoda
Tianxiang, Taroko Gorge



Daxiong Baodian Temples
Tianxiang, Taroko Gorge



Giant Statue of Bodhisattva
Xiangde Temple Area
Tianxiang, Taroko Gorge

 
 

With a little time left before dinner we headed down again and under the Pudu Bridge and into the Gorge.  The sandy river base was dotted with house sized marble boulders.  We climbed up and down and explored the mammoth rocks and outcroppings below. A few more pictures and it was time to go back to the hotel (we were losing light fast) and have a swim in the infinity pool and soak our muscles in the hot tub.  Next stop dinner!



Bev under the Pudu Bridge in Tianxiang, Taroko Gorge
Look at the size of those boulders




Bev on top of the "world"
Taroko Gorge



View of the Xiangde Temple Area from the Heaven Summit Pagoda

The Wellesley Restaurant at The Silks Hotel is fantastic!! We partook of the wonderful buffet. It was so yummy with a large variety of Eastern and Western foods. A wonderful chef who had interned in Chicago was manning the meat and fish station. You could order from a selection of meat, fish and poultry and have it cooked to your liking. Then there was cheese and fruit bar, which was great, but nothing beat the loaded dessert bar. That was absolute decadence. After dinner the Three Musketeers, (Bev, Mark and I) retired to Mark’s room and listened to lounge music and had a few drinks. We logged our photos, compared notes and then crashed to our respective rooms.

Note: While staying at The Silks Hotel we ran into a couple that had also stayed at the Leader Hotel. Jeremy and Sue are from Sydney, Australia who were in Taiwan for his 50th birthday.  When at The Leader we had told them about our planned ride up and down the Gorge. On our way back up the Gorge we saw them cycling from the bus window.  Later they told me that I had inspired them by being a newbie cyclist and doing the rides I had done so far.  They decided to rent bikes and also ride down and back up the Gorge that day. We had a celebratory drink together in The Retreat Lounge before we went to dinner.

View of Tianxiang from Heaven Summit Pagoda
Taroko Gorge



Looking down the stairwell of the Heaven Summit Pagoda
Taroko Gorge